The best Mexican food in San Diego has a line down the block
Las Cuatro Milpas
Hours: M-F 8:30 AM – 3 PM; Sat. 6 AM – 3 PM
Location: 1857 Logan Ave, San Diego, CA 92113
Las Cuatro Milpas, in the Barrio Logan neighborhood near downtown, is some of the best Mexican food in San Diego at an extraordinarily low price.
The restaurant was opened nearly 90 years ago in 1933, before freeways, a Naval base and the Coronado bridge. The population of San Diego County then was a little over 200,000; today, it is 3.3 million.
Whether you’re visiting from out of town or live a good drive away up North or out East, it’s hard not to resist a trip to eat their legendary tortillas. The balance of fat, chewiness and charred texture in these when you bite into a burrito or taco sets it apart from any other Mexican place in San Diego.
Learn more about the history, food and what to do around the neighborhood below.
Parking, ordering and the menu
Las Cuatro Milpas is open every day except Sunday for breakfast and lunch, and is most popular around lunchtime. It’s located off Logan Ave. on the I-5 freeway. Be ready for the exit because it will come up fast. The restaurant is right off the exit. Find street parking right outside or near the restaurant.
There is almost always a line outside, but don’t worry. At peak hours, it might take 30-40 minutes for you to order and get your food, but their line moves fast. The restaurant is a family business where they’ve perfected and maintained the same process and the same menu over decades.
That said, as soon as you walk through their door, you’ll have to know what to order. Unfortunately, they don’t give you time to think about the menu. In addition, the place is cash only, so be sure to stop by an ATM before coming.
Here are their selections with items and prices below:
Food
Meat options – Carnitas or chicken (tamales are pork only)
- Taco or tamale – $2.50
- Order of rolled tacos – $6.50 / 1 rolled taco – $1.50
- Burritos – $6.50
- Rice – S – $2 / M – $3.50 / L – $5.50
- Beans – S – $3.50 / M – $4.50 / L – $7.50
- Rice and beans – S – $4.50 / M – $5.50
- Rice and beans and Tamale – $6.50
- Chorizo con huevo – S – $4.50 / M – $6.50 / L – $10.75
- Dozen tamales – $30
- Dozen tortillas – $4
- Free hot sauce available upon request (You can buy bottled hot sauce)
Drinks
- Soda bottle – $2
- Soda can – $1.50
- Water $1
Atmosphere
Stepping into Las Cuatro Milpas is like walking back in time for me. My dad first took me here when I was 12.
The place hasn’t at all changed in the 20 years I’ve gone there: same seating areas, same menu, same kitchen setup, same register and the same pictures hanging on the walls. Manuela, the owner, runs the cash register. She’s the granddaughter of the original owners, Petra and Nati Estudillo.
There’s a large setup in back where workers make tortillas. The building itself is bare. There are fold-up metal chairs and common tables as if someone was catering for the day. The building slightly reminds me of an adobe style house.
What’s even more amazing about this place is that all their business and popularity has come through word of mouth in the city and county over generations. They don’t have an active social media presence nor do they need one.
When you come, it’s like visiting a living landmark of San Diego food culture.
Food
What’s kept people coming back and recommending this place is the quality of their food. From the look of the marinated pork and the extra large wok filled with lard for frying tortillas, you would expect a heavy meal with lots of grease. Instead, you get succulent pork with a crunchy tortilla, a nice crunch of shredded lettuce and a little acidic brightness from some cotija cheese.
My 3 pork tacos were every bit of this deliciousness and more. When you add some of the heat from their hot salsa, it brings the whole meal together and makes the ingredients sing with more depth. If you’re into though, stay away because the heat will creep up on you.
My dad got a chicken burrito with lettuce and cheese (you can add sour cream as well). I tried a piece and it was juicy, perfect to go with the full flavor of their tortillas.
Jennifer got chorizo con huevos with rice and beans. In addition, we got a couple of tamales to try. The chorizo con huevos was surprisingly mild and full flavored. They really want the smoky, hearty flavor of the slow simmered chorizo and beans to stand out, and you can add salsa at your discretion.
The real star of this meal though was the tamale. The pork has more time in the sealed husk of the tamale to retain and soak in the juices of the marinade. If you cut it into it with a fork, you can see the rich steam rise off of it and bite into some of the best flavored pork in San Diego. The complexity of the marinade hits with so many different elements: smoky, sweet, rich, tender.
Neighborhood
Las Cuatro Milpas is located in Barrio Logan, a Chicano neighborhood near downtown San Diego. If you want a quick side trip after your meal, take a walk over to Chicano Park.
Chicano Park was created in the early 1970s after the Coronado Bridge was built, where its bridge supports and on-ramps created huge obstructions in the local neighborhood. Demonstrators in 1970 fought against the construction of a California Highway Patrol Station, and instead it became a community park and art space where the bridge pylons are canvases for murals done by local artists.
There have been many murals done over the years with hundreds of stories about Chicano and Indigenous heritage. It’s a way for the community tell their story. If you’d like to learn more, check out this site from an SDSU class.
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Be sure to check back next Wednesday for another post on a plant-based restaurant here in Oceanside called The Plot.